Food

New Wave Reds From a Changing Spain

The world of wine has evolved remarkably over the last few decades, but I can’t think of anyplace that has changed more than Spain.

All over the country, producers are reviving old traditions, inventing new styles and, in general, raising quality to levels never seen before. They are exalting grapes that had been written off and expressions that had been dismissed. Spain offers so much in wine that I find exciting.

Much of the work has been done by a new generation of farmers and producers, people who have been influenced not only by local traditions but by the worldwide wine conversation that has created communities linked by like-minded ideas.

This month we will explore three red wines from producers who are among Spain’s new wave. As with the orange wines we have been drinking over the last month, these are disparate examples, from different regions of Spain and made with different grapes. Yet I think the wines will show a few traits in common.

One of them is their importer, José Pastor, who has done excellent work bringing producers like these to the United States. He is not the only one doing a great job in Spain — De Maison Selections, European Cellars and Selections de la Viña are three more that immediately come to mind.

I would recommend many of the wines these three import, although they don’t all fit this new wave category. But coincidentally, these three are brought in by Mr. Pastor. They are:

Envínate Ycoden-Daute-Isora Benje Tinto 2020 (José Pastor Selections/Llaurador Wines, Fairfax, Calif.) $29

Goyo García Viadero Ribera del Duero Joven de Viñas Viejas 2019 (José Pastor Selections/Llaurador Wines) $30

Laura Lorenzo Daterra Viticultores Camino de la Frontera Viño Tinto 2019 (José Pastor Selections/Llaurador Wines) $32

Don’t worry if you can only find a different vintage of these bottles, and by all means, if you see another red cuvée from any of these producers try it. Other producers to consider include Luis Rodriguez, Rubén Díaz, Comando G, Microbio, Daniel Ramos, Bodegas Ponce and La Perdida, just to name a few.

As I said, these are all from different places. The Envínate is from Tenerife in the Canary Islands, the Goyo García is from Ribera del Duero in northern Spain and the Laura Lorenzo is from western Spain, near where Portugal meets the southeastern edge of Galicia.

Think of these as fresh reds that will be best served cool.

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